Lasagne alla Bolognese

Instructions

1. Melt the butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot and cook the onion, carrot, celery, and pancetta over low heat until the vegetables are soft, not browned. 15 min

   This soffritto is the flavor base of the whole ragu -- rushing it with high heat browns the vegetables instead of softening them, and the ragu never quite tastes right afterward.

2. Add the ground beef and pork, raise the heat, and cook, breaking it apart, until no longer pink. 10 min
3. Pour in the white wine and simmer until it evaporates. 5 min
4. Add the milk and simmer until it's mostly absorbed, then stir in the tomato paste. 10 min

   Adding milk before the tomato is traditional in Bologna -- it tenderizes the meat and rounds out the tomato's acidity, which is why this ragu tastes rounder than a tomato-forward Sunday sauce.

5. Add the stock, season with salt and pepper, and simmer very gently, uncovered, adding more stock or water if it dries out, until deeply developed. 120 min

   A true ragu alla bolognese simmers for at least two hours, sometimes three or four -- there is no shortcut to the flavor this builds.

6. Meanwhile, melt the butter for the besciamella in a saucepan, whisk in the flour, and cook for a minute. Gradually whisk in the milk and simmer until thickened, then season with nutmeg and salt.
7. Preheat the oven to 190C (375F). Spread a thin layer of ragu in the baking dish, then layer pasta sheets, ragu, and besciamella, repeating to use it all up, finishing with besciamella.
8. Scatter the Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top.
9. Bake until bubbling and golden on top. 35 min
10. Let it rest before slicing. 15 min

    Slicing straight from the oven collapses the layers -- resting lets the lasagna set.